VISCOSE
Viscose, a biodegradable fabric favoured by D&G, has the potential to be highly sustainable. However, poorly regulated viscose manufacturing has been linked to severe social and environmental damage in India, Indonesia and China.
MAJOR COMMITMENT
Pollution prevention, cleanup and control: D&G will become a full signatory to the Changing Markets Roadmap towards responsible viscose manufacturing and commit to engage suppliers to bring emission controls and chemical recovery rates in line with the EU Best Available Techniques (BAT) by 2025.
STRATEGIC RECOMMENDATIONS​
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Publicly disclose viscose suppliers in web reports
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Engage suppliers to:
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Comply with national and local environmental regulations
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Protect workers and residents from chemical exposure
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Remediate damage to the surrounding environment
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Implement chemical management systems including wastewater treatment
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Improve energy efficiency and reduce greenhouse gas emissions
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Publish bi-annual supplier progress through contracted third-party monitoring using The CanopyStyle Audits, a credible verification process for viscose.
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PROJECTED IMPACT
People
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Protect textile workers and agricultural systems from exposure to poisonous chemicals and associated ill-health.
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Alleviate income instability for local farmers and fisherpeople, caused by untreated wastewater contaminating local waterways.
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Honour and respect the rights of Indigenous Peoples.
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Planet
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Reverse regional ecological damage and contribute to ecosystem regeneration.
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Protect half a million migratory birds that are displaced every year due to viscose-related pollution.
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Profit
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Regain consumer trust and recapture lost revenues.
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Develop supplier resilience ahead of potential legislation, e.g. the EU’s Best Available Techniques (BAT) which may become mandatory for EU imports from 2021.
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Potential cost savings from supply chain efficiency opportunities identified during procurement reviews.
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Potential cost savings from energy efficiency improvements and emissions reduction.
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COVID-19 presents an opportunity for suppliers to update health and safety protocols and acknowledge protection from chemicals.
Timeline​
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Q2 2021: Publicly sign the Changing Markets Roadmap and adhere to related disclosures.
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H2 2021: Ongoing supplier engagement to ensure supplier commitment; begin sourcing alternative suppliers if necessary.
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Q1 2022: All viscose suppliers are committed to achieving the goals of the Roadmap by 2025 at the latest; suppliers begin to adhere to biannual reporting.
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Q4 2025: All viscose supplied to Dolce & Gabbana is sustainably sourced.
FUR
In response to animal rights campaigners and shifting consumer attitudes, competitors have exited the fur market and championed faux fur replacements.
However, fake fur is made from petroleum-based fibres, which exacerbates plastic pollution – leaching microplastics into waterways during the wash cycle and failing to biodegrade over thousands of years.
Instead of transitioning to damaging plastic alternatives, D&G will step ahead of its competitors and continue to meet demand for real fur with limited-edition ethical fur collections.
MAJOR COMMITMENT
D&G will eliminate new, farmed and endangered fur from all collections by 2023.
STRATEGIC RECOMMENDATIONS​
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Vintage fur: Well-maintained vintage fur can be sourced, restored and remanufactured via European resellers
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Pre-consumer surplus: Leftover “scraps” from manufacturers are currently sent to landfill. Dolce & Gabbana, with some of the most innovative designers in the world, will design luxury fur products from the surplus otherwise destined for landfill
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Reclaimed fur: Fur from animals culled by governmental regulation is typically wasted entirely, e.g. Swiss Red Fox. Dolce & Gabbana will purchase the lost fur at a low cost to design and release limited edition reclaimed fur collections
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PROJECTED IMPACT
Planet
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Banning new farmed fur will reduce the number of animals bred in extreme confinement and killed for their pelt
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Vintage, surplus and reclaimed fur collections are a step towards circularity – reusing materials already in circulation and rescuing waste from landfill
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Dolce & Gabbana will not contribute to the extinction and endangerment of animals for the fur trade.
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​Profit
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Instead of competing with competitors who have spent years investing in faux-fur innovations, D&G will work to its core strength of Creativity&Tailoring with ethical fur collections.
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Develop resilience against the risk of further fur bans: Los Angeles, West Hollywood and California are amongst regions to have banned the sale of new farmed fur.
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Availability of ethical fur may fluctuate; collections will be limited according to supply and fur collections products may be sold at a premium to respect margins.
Timeline
Dolce & Gabbana will eliminate new fur within two annual cycles, by Spring/Summer 2023.
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Q1 2021: Eliminate fur from all upcoming collections and begin final production and sales of existing fur collections
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Q2 2021: Begin sourcing ethical fur for future collections
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Q1 2022: Design ethical fur collections
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Autumn/Winter 2023: Launch first ethical fur collection
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Couture cycle repeats: sourcing, designing and launching ethical fur collections in line with supply and demand
WATER
MAJOR COMMITMENT
Evolve cotton and leather offerings to reduce water consumption.
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STRATEGIC RECOMMENDATIONS
- Cotton: Replace 100% of sourced cotton with certified organic and Fairtrade or recycled cotton by 2026 and reduce water consumption by up to 60%.
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Leather: Commit to engage 100% of leather suppliers by 2026 through the Leather Working Group, which supports tanners to reduce water consumption.
PROJECTED IMPACT​
​People
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Reduce water insecurity amongst textile manufacturing communities in China, India and Pakistan.
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Alleviate water, hygiene and sanitation issues in textile manufacturing communities.
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Fairtrade guarantees a living wage for cotton farmers and provides income protection in an increasingly turbulent market.
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Planet
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Organic cotton uses 91% less freshwater than conventional cotton, increasing D&G’s water efficiency.
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Reduce contribution to the dramatic disappearance of the Aral Sea in Central Asia, attributed to cotton irrigation to supply the industry.
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Delivers significant consumption savings by reusing effluent water during leather production (a typical pair of leather shoes requires 8000L of water to manufacture).
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​Profit
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The FairTrade logo is one of the most widely recognised initiatives worldwide, demonstrating D&G’s intent and commitment to responsible luxury.
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D&G will work to its core strength of Creativity&Tailoring by weaving new life into recycled cotton yarn.
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Increase resilience by reducing dependence on new cotton crops and diversifying into recycled fabrics.
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The Leather Working Group provides access to an established environmental auditing system for the leather industry, and a supply of leather manufacturers assessed by the LWG Environmental Audit Protocol for a $7500 annual subscription.
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Timeline
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Q1 2021: Join the Leather Working Group and begin supplier engagement.
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Q4 2021: Sustainability Committee begins supplier engagement for both cotton and leather.
